Uncle Mort’s “throwaway” lines grow mountainous in trash heaps on his place back in the thicket. Some heard, though, are “keepers,” worthy of repeated consid eration. When still in his 90s, he warned about paying the least bit of attention to kitchen recipes that have unrecognizable or multisyllabic words, exotic wines or ingredients to be “folded in.” He also said upon sighting the words “foie de gras,” one should “duck” into simpler, less “uppity” recipes. Finally, he suggested avoiding recipes running in large, metropolitan newspapers. “Look for ‘em in community newspapers, where Mort claims they are more lovingly shared, often handed down to ...